I’ll try to update this list as I run into new applications, or people suggest other things to add.

Google’s web browser, extremely lightweight with a nice UI, only downfall is sometimes a lack of support with certain sites that artifically limit what browser you connect with.

Mozilla’s web browser, first browser to make a serious dent in Internet Explorer. Excellent user community provides numerous plugins to extend functionality.

Another free browser that uses mouse gestures to help navigate around, once you get the hang of them you’ll be clicking all over the web!

A free FTP client that allows you to save connections to multiple FTP sites, as well as use a GUI interface to navigate folders on both the local and remote computer.

AVG is a free Anti Virus program that also has corporate versions for purchase. One of the most widely used free Anti-Virus programs on the market.

Skype is by far one of the coolest free applications out there. Skype is a VoIP service that allows you to call from your computer. This is free so long as you call someone else on Skype no matter where they are in the world. There is a fee to “Skype out” and call someone not on Skype, but the rates are competitive with other phone providers. You can also use other devices such as a webcam to enhance your phone calls.

VLC is a free media player, that handles, downloaded videos, music, as well as CD’s and DVD’s. Beyond that it can be used to stream music to other people. Very lightweight but powerful tool, and makes using media a breeze!

7-Zip is a free program that allows for the compression and uncompression of files. While Windows has been including the ability to zip and unzip files, 7-Zip handles other compression methods such as Tar and Gz allowing a wider range of access to both compress your own files, as well as access files from sources that use compression other than zip.

Pidgin, allows you to use multiple different chat accounts from one application. AIM, Yahoo, MSN, IRC, and many many more. Install also comes with an optional program that will provide spell check inside your chat window, very helpful for those tricky words!

Open Office is an alternative to Microsoft Office. With different products mirroring the major Microsoft products Open Office provides all of this functionality without any cost, perfect for those that either want an alternative, or just don’t want to shell out the money for Microsoft’s ever more expensive products. To increase integration, while they do they have their own native file formats, Open Office can open Microsoft formats as well.

GIMP is a free, open source alternative to Photoshop. While not quite as robust as the latest versions, it also doesn’t carve out large amounts of money. Great for personal use, or light photo editing.

Last but certainly not least comes Wordpress. Wordpress is a blogging tool that is used as a framework for both simple blogs to sites accessed by millions every day. Geekjunk is run off it, as well as CNN to put it into perspective. Check it out and get started on your own blog today!

Before we begin, a few words of warning and caution. First, this guide will not be a be all end all answer to spyware. While most of the time a computer is cleanable, there are a few times when the infection will be so bad and have corrupted so much that you will not be able to fully clean the computer. If this is the case, you will need to wipe clean your computer and reinstall your operating system. I will put up a guide for that soon. Second, a computer infected with spyware, or any kind of computer virus for that matter, should be quarantined as best as possible. Any device that connects such as a USB flash drive, should be left disconnected for the length of infection, as some varieties of spyware can in fact jump to the flash drive and spread to other computers in this fashion. Beyond those two warnings, use your best judgment. If you have any specific concerns feel free to leave a comment at the end of this entry.

This guide is going to be centered around the use of Spybot Search and Destroy, but there are several Anti-Spyware products on the market free for download and use. They all have similar functionality and if you find yourself good with one you should be able to pick up use of another without too much difficulty. For really bad spyware infections, running multiple products often will help ensure that your computer is as clean as can be! I will include links to both Spybot Search and Destroy plus a few other spyware removal tools at the end of this article.

Install Procedure

First and foremost, you will need to install Spybot Search and Destroy before you will be able to use it. You can find the install file here: http://www.safer-networking.org/en/download/index.html From there you will have an installer file, that you need only double click in order to install. The install will give you a few check boxes to select, generally, I uncheck both Teatimer, and the SDHelper. While nice, both of these use up a lot of resources, so if you have an older computer I would definitely recommend not installing them. The choice is yours though, and a newer machine should be more than able to handle the extra strain. Once the install is done, go ahead and run the program for the first time. Spybot will give you an option of 7 steps to preform before getting into the actual program. You can choose to do them now if you would like, or click through them and just go right into the program. The only one I would absolutely recommend is the update of Spybot. Even with a recent download of the install package there could be recent updates to the definition files that tell the program what to look for. The updater will give you a list of places to download the update from, choose anyone from your country of choice and then download the updates. If you skipped the install of Teatimer, feel free to uncheck any updates for it. Once all that is done, you’re finally ready to start cleaning up your computer.

Checking for Problems

This part pretty much runs itself. On the main page of the program, there is an option to check for problems. Clicking this will automatically launch the anti-spyware tool and start checking your computer. Be patient with this as it can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour depending on the age of your computer and the amount of files it has to check through. While it is running you can continue to use your computer, just be aware that things might run a little slower, so either find a good time to take a break, or just make sure you have a little extra patience.

Once the process completes you will see one of two things. Either your computer is clean, and the results say no threats found, or it will say one or more threats found. If you received the first response, congratulations, keep up the good work and safe internet browsing. If you are like the majority of computer users, myself included you probably have at least a a few threats found. Not a problem, at all, there should be a button at the top of the window that says fix selected problems. Clicking that button will go ahead and remove all of the issues that it found. Generally this will run through without any problems and take care of all your issues. If for whatever reason Spybot cannot immediately remove a threat it will ask you if you want to run Spybot first thing when your computer next turns on, and will then prompt you to reboot your computer. Go ahead and do this, you will see a Spybot window show up and start running before your normal login screen will show up. Be patient as this will take about the same time as the previous scan did. Depending on the level of infection you may have to run this a few times. Persistent infections are also best treated with the use of multiple programs as well. I will post links to a few of them at the end here.

Hopefully by now any spyware that was on your computer is taken care of. If not it might be worth getting help from a resident family computer geek, or barring that, if you feel like shelling out a little money, finding a local computer shop to give you a hand cleaning your computer.

Spyware Removal Programs

Spybot Search and Destroy
Malwarebytes
Adaware
Hijack This

Good luck, and again, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions.

First and foremost, all of these tips hinge off of the Windows key, or system key. Most Window’s based computers have this key with the Microsoft “Windows” logo, like the one seen at the top of this article. For Mac users running boot camp, this key will of course be the key with your Apple logo on it, and a few generic keys might just have a computer or some other generic logo. The Windows key is usually in between the Control or Ctrl key, and the Alternate or Alt key. Older keyboards and older laptops, especially older Thinkpads are missing this key, so unfortunately you will not be able to make use of these shortcuts. In ordering the list, I started with the more common shortcuts and worked my way into the ones that even the biggest power user won’t often touch. Now on to the list!

Shortcuts

Windows Key by itself: Opens the Start Menu
Windows + L: Locks the computer*
Windows + M: Minimizes all open applications Great if you want to quickly hide what you are looking at or working on…
Windows + M + Shift: Brings everything back in the same order after hitting Windows + M Great for getting back where you were after hiding everything!
Windows + D: Shows the desktop. This is very similar to Windows + M, only it will hide absolutely everything instead of just applications. Hitting it again will restore everything to where it was.
Windows + E: Opens Windows Explorer
Windows + R: Opens a run dialogue box
Windows + F: Opens a Windows search menu**
Windows + F + Ctrl: Opens up the find computer menu**
Windows + F1: Opens Windows help
Windows + Pause/Break: Opens System Properties window
Windows + U: Opens Utility Manager***

Microsoft Office Shortcuts

Windows + S: Create a screen capture while using Microsoft OneNote

Vista Only Shortcuts

Windows + Space: Show Sidebar
Windows + G: Select next Sidebar Gadget
Windows + X: Enters Windows Mobility Center Does not work on Desktops
Windows + Tab: Switches Windows using Flip 3D Windows Areo needs to be running
Windows + 1 through 9: Launches associated quick launch programs

Windows 7 Only Shortcuts

Windows + P: Switch to projection mode for multiple monitor setup
Windows + Up Arrow: Maximizes active window
Windows + Down Arrow: Minimizes active window
Windows + Left Arrow/Right Arrow: Aligns the active windows to the left or right side of the screen

Third Party Windows Key Shortcuts

Windows + Y: Opens Yahoo Messenger if Installed
Other Third Party Programs can enable additional shortcuts such as the Windows + Y one for Yahoo Messenger

*Locking the computer will secure a computer in the event that you are going to be away for a period of time and don’t want anyone accessing your system. In order to unlock your computer, one needs only to enter their username and password, or choose their username from the list and clicking ok/enter. In the event you don’t have a password leave that part blank and continue as you would otherwise.

**If you have Desktop Search installed, it will launch that program instead

***Utility Manger is a Windows program that assists with accessibility options such as the On Screen Keyboard

NTP

123/udp

RPC Endpoint Mapper

135/tcp
135/udp
1024-65535/tcp (TCP high ports are needed for a few things, this just happens to be the first one on the list that required them so I placed them here)

NetBIOS

137/tcp
137/udp
139/tcp

SMB

445/tcp
445/udp

LDAP

389/tcp
636/tcp (SSL)

Global Catalog LDAP

3268/tcp
3269/tcp (SSL)

Kerberos

88/tcp
88/udp

DNS

53/tcp
53/udp

ICMP

8
13
15
17

Opening these ports allowed us to properly communicate and authenticate between a host and the primary Domain Controller. While there may be other ports you will open, such as 161 for SNMP traffic, this is not required for AD communication, but rather something extra you will open up on your network. I have included both another good list, granted with a few differences, such as WINS, which while required for older systems, is not required for AD working with newer hosts. The other link, goes to a Microsoft support article that talks in-depth about different ports to open, and describes different network services such as DHCP that again may be part of your installation, but are not required for for AD servers to communicate and authenticate with a host.

Additional AD Port Links

Geeks With Blogs AD Ports Article
Microsoft AD Ports Article

First and foremost, one needs to decide where wireless coverage is absolutely needed, be it single room, a whole floor, or the entire house. Depending on coverage needed and the layout of the house, it may become necessary to use two separate routers, or a router and an access point. For those wondering, an access point is like a wireless router, except that it only provides wireless coverage unlike the router which acts as a gateway for internet traffic into your home.

Now, once you have the list of rooms that need coverage take a look at it. Are the rooms adjacent to each other? Rooms that are clustered together, will make optimizing the coverage easier. For rooms to be adjacent they can either be next to each other, or on top of each other. Your wireless router sends out the signal in an omnidirectional pattern. If the rooms you want coverage in are not adjacent to each other that’s ok too, we’ll just need to do a little careful planning.

While it may seem like common sense, the best location for your router is most likely in a central location relative to where you want coverage to extend to. This being said, it can sometimes be difficult to achieve based on where your internet connection comes into the house. A few ways around this for the craftier folks out there, is to try things such as running a cable through a heating vent, up around door frames, or to get your cable company to put in an additional cable run. Though the last choice there might incur a service fee.

Central location or not, it is best to understand what can affect the spread of a wireless connection. The most obvious first answer to that is walls. Walls no matter how thin will cut the signal of your wireless by at least a little bit, the more walls obviously the more resistance to sending your signal. Beyond that, of course the thicker the wall the more of an effect you will notice. What you might not know is that certain things in the wall can have a bigger impact. Concrete, metal, electrical lines, and water all have a fairly noticeable impact. Water especially can be detrimental if you are trying to send the signal through a bathroom or kitchen, or through an area that often has several people in it. Remember a human body contains a high level of water which can absorb the signal and weaken it. Back to the bathroom note, you can have a good signal at one point, and then see it drop as a shower is running, something to keep in mind when placing your router. Also of note, cordless phones, baby monitors, and microwaves can also cause interference.

With all these considerations to keep in mind it may seem like this is still going to be a daunting task. First, remember that these items that can weaken a signal will not stop it all on their own, a signal can pass through a few walls if need be. The best advice is to find something as centrally located as possible, and one that minimizes walls, and water interference. If you are still having problems after placement, and having done your best to minimize interference, you still have a few options. Not all wireless networking products are created equal. Do some research and get devices that aim to boost signals further. Wireless N products, while still in draft mode are becoming very common, and many of them have boosted signal making it easier to send through walls and to multiple floors in a home. The biggest advice for that is to make sure you do research on the different models and see which ones are best for sending strong wireless signals.

Today wireless networking has almost become synonymous with home networking. Go down to Best Buy, pick up a Linksys router, connect in your laptop and you are all set. While there are a few basic security features that should be turned on, this wireless solution is more than sufficient for that majority of home networkers. However, there is a much wider world to explore when considering wireless networking. First and foremost one must decide on a standard. For personal use you will see as many as four different letters describing wireless technologies, A, B, G, and N, but to the laymen, these terms mean nothing more then a spoonful of alphabet soup.

Wireless A

Wireless A came out at the same time that Wireless B did. It provides faster data transfer speeds but much shorter range then its B counterpart. Generally Wireless A did not catch on or achieve very high market saturation. Few routers or wireless equipped laptops even support this standard anymore and with newer standards such as Wireless G and Wireless N, this standard is mostly obsolete.

Wireless B

Wireless B was significantly slower than it’s a counterpart, but it did however offer superior range and home coverage making it ideal for early home networking solutions. Its two bigger drawbacks however are in the reduced speed, and the interference the signal can receive from microwave ovens and some cordless phones. Most new laptops and wireless devices that support Wireless G are still backwards compatible with Wireless B as it is still found in many locations.

Wireless G

Wireless G operates on the same frequency as Wireless B, however, it uses the same still of signal as Wireless A, allowing it to send at a much higher rate than Wireless B. Wireless G opened the door to widespread implementation of wireless technologies. Wireless G made wireless much more prevalent both for home users as well as business class networks. Like Wireless B though it still suffered from the same interference.

Wireless N

Wireless N despite still being in draft phase is now becoming very common in both the home and business markets. Offering both incredible improvements over range and speed, Wireless N is also backwards compatible with both Wireless B and G. In terms of performance, Wireless N is the current leader in what it can offer, and is not significantly more expensive than Wireless G.

Choosing a standard – G versus N

In implementing a home wireless solution, the question comes up, should one go with G or N? Wireless G is most likely more than sufficient for the average home user. With companies like Linksys putting out their RangeBooster, and SpeedBooster options, why would one want to spend any more money than they have to? Especially considering that more than likely any existing laptops will only support wireless G. Perhaps the single biggest reason to adopt Wireless N is scalability. Even if all of your devices are Wireless N, a Wireless N router will still produce a stronger signal. Also, as more devices start supporting wireless N adopting a Wireless N router now will mean that the infrastructure will already be in place. Ultimately the decision needs to be made on cost versus performance and scalability, based on both ones current needs as well as future growth.